My latest centrifugal project at Houston Ballet was to remake , tweak, reinvent these fantastic tutus for William Forsyths work Vertiginous Thrill of Exactitude...
After having studied the same costumes from several other companies i found ways to lighten there weight, streamline the construction and save some $$ as well....
They really are flying pancakes ... one version of construction i dissected was a traditional tutu, steamed and tacked very tightly with a single outer hoop...the layers of "traditional" net still were very bulky, and did not have the playful bounce this costume needs..... the Norwegian construction eliminated the rows of netting to single pleated net which is much thinner and lighter... and they used two hoops, one centered and one at the outer edge... their outer hoop is made of kite batons, which are very expensive, and a little to stiff for the balletic need of partnering and such.
My solution was to use a regular steel hoop, and edge it with 3/8 inch foam crack filler,,,, it gave a perfect rounded "Frisbee" edge, and cost about 2$... instead of something in the hundreds :).... aside from the light weight of the foam it's soft, and great for the men to reflect off of ...I love fabric shopping at HOME DEPOT.
Besides the precision in the title of this ballet, the patterning, cutting, and sewing had to be perfect.... I headed the project with assistance from Tina, and Sandy... the shape came greatly from the correct circumferences of the hoops, and also the amount the velor (top plate) was stretched over them... too much length of hoop - even by a half inch- torqued the shape , and any loose places in the top plates created sag.... all the pieces were basted together first by hand.....
There were a few other little tricks, and pieces to the inner guts i'll keep secret for now.
*pictured above is myself, Tina and Sandy.
*below is the underside (crotch left un sewn until completion)
*last pic is Tina balancing out our second of four tutus.
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