Monday, April 27, 2009

The last thing is closure....... NOT!

Most often in a costume shop you hear that the last step in garment construction is closure, and maybe a hem. Once zippers are set, hooks affixed, and elastics adjusted I'm just getting started.
I don't call it done there, i pull out my aircompressor and fire up the airbrush. The tutu pictured above is one i just finished for a dancer at the Joffry ballet in chicago. All of the pieces recieved a few airbrush details after completion. The "warmth" of this costume is owed to not to just great fabric, and precision sewing but to PAINT. There are only three colors of fabric here, but what i did was lay various lace scraps over the bodice and top plate and airbrush deeper purples, lighter pinks, and a yellowy gold over the lace (using it like a stencil). The sleeves and gold lace under the top plate also recieved a blast.

The below image is far from a delicate tutu, it is a body suit i designed and created with some awsome help from my buddy Tina Ladner for Houston Ballets Dolls House last season. It is assembled from many interesting fabrics, but its real interest comes from PAINT, airbrushed threw sports mesh in the same fashion. The left of the picture is pre paint.


Aside from adding depth and texture you can use the airbrush to to tweak fabric colors.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Mr. Postman Look and See , Is there a POST CARD in your bag for me?

(front) above, (back) below
I just finished creating postcards to accompany the launch of my new website. Adobe Photo Shop is very intimidating, i'm more suited for Adobe Photo Mill, Boutique, or possibly Outlet. After watching an awesome friend for several days in creating my web page I must bow down, and applaud those of you with the computer touch, rather then my "touched" approach.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

frisbee with the norwegians ?

Vertiginous Thrill of Exacti(tutu)













My latest centrifugal project at Houston Ballet was to remake , tweak, reinvent these fantastic tutus for William Forsyths work Vertiginous Thrill of Exactitude...

After having studied the same costumes from several other companies i found ways to lighten there weight, streamline the construction and save some $$ as well....
They really are flying pancakes ... one version of construction i dissected was a traditional tutu, steamed and tacked very tightly with a single outer hoop...the layers of "traditional" net still were very bulky, and did not have the playful bounce this costume needs..... the Norwegian construction eliminated the rows of netting to single pleated net which is much thinner and lighter... and they used two hoops, one centered and one at the outer edge... their outer hoop is made of kite batons, which are very expensive, and a little to stiff for the balletic need of partnering and such.

My solution was to use a regular steel hoop, and edge it with 3/8 inch foam crack filler,,,, it gave a perfect rounded "Frisbee" edge, and cost about 2$... instead of something in the hundreds :).... aside from the light weight of the foam it's soft, and great for the men to reflect off of ...I love fabric shopping at HOME DEPOT.

Besides the precision in the title of this ballet, the patterning, cutting, and sewing had to be perfect.... I headed the project with assistance from Tina, and Sandy... the shape came greatly from the correct circumferences of the hoops, and also the amount the velor (top plate) was stretched over them... too much length of hoop - even by a half inch- torqued the shape , and any loose places in the top plates created sag.... all the pieces were basted together first by hand.....

There were a few other little tricks, and pieces to the inner guts i'll keep secret for now.

*pictured above is myself, Tina and Sandy.
*below is the underside (crotch left un sewn until completion)
*last pic is Tina balancing out our second of four tutus.